Itinerary
		= ports at anchor
Monday 23rd August	-	Dover, UK
Tuesday	-	Amsterdam, Netherlands
Wednesday	-	transit Kiel Canal
Thursday	-	Copenhagen, Denmark
Friday	-	Oslo, Norway
Saturday	-	Stavanger, Norway
Sunday	-	(am) Ulvik, Norway
	-	(pm) Eidfjord, Norway
Monday	-	(am) Gudvangen, Norway
	-	(pm) Flam, Norway
Tuesday	-	Bergen, Norway
Wednesday	-	at sea
Thursday 2nd September	-	Dover, UK

Black Watch at anchor in stunning Eidfjord, Norway.

Welcome aboard! (Our Formal Portrait) Cruise Route Map

In June 1998, through my membership of the Ocean Liner Society, Dad & I had the opportunity of a day-visit to Black Watch in Dover. Previously the prestigious "Royal Viking Star" of 1972, she was one of 3 identical sister-ships which once ranked alongside Sagafjord & Vistafjord as the top 5 ships in the World. She had recently been acquired by Fred Olsen and had joined the fleet in 1997.

As a result of being "wined & dined" by Fred Olsen Cruise Line, within a month we had booked a 2 week Mediterranean cruise for August the following year. However, it was not to be; within 3 weeks of booking, the trip was cancelled by Fred Olsen; they had decided to charter the ship in August to, none other than Page & Moy - my own travel agent!

Needless to say, I expressed our displeasure to both Fred Olsen and Page & Moy! As a consequence, Dad & I changed our booking to Page & Moy's charter to the Norwegian Fjords in return for a "special deal" on a Marquee Suite (9001!) - and our first balcony. See Penthouse Suite Plan >>

Black Watch in Dover		Black Watch in Dover		Dad on the Balcony		Leaving Dover		At Sea

Tuesday 24th August
Amsterdam, Netherlands
No need to do an organised tour here; we took the shuttle-bus to Central Station and had a lovely sightseeing walk on this, our 2nd time in Amsterdam. In the afternoon, we enjoyed more sights from the comfort of the canal water-buses.

The Amstel		Mint Tower		Dad map-reading		OK Amsterdam!		Westerkerk

Wednesday 25th - Thursday 26th August
The Kiel Canal, Germany & Copenhagen, Denmark
We spent a delightful day on our passage through the Kiel Canal, enjoying the "model train-set" landscape as it gently passed by. Opened in 1895, the canal is about 62 miles long and is at sea level but there are locks at each end to deal with the slight difference between the North Sea and the Baltic. It takes 7-8 hours and the ship passes under a number of impressive bridges on the way. Each time we passed under a bridge, Black Watch gave a long blast on her whistle, making everyone jump out their skin!

About half-way through the canal, we passed Royal Viking Sun coming the other way; remember that Black Watch used to be part of the Royal Viking Line, so there was a lot
of cheering and shouting and exchanges of ships whistles. Picture >> All Great Fun!		Show Video

In the Canal		Royal Viking Sun Kiel Canal		The Little Mermaid		Changing the Guard		Tivoli Gardens

In Copenhagen, the weather started promisingly but deteriorated through the day. I lost my Royal Viking Sun cap in the harbour off the back of the canal boat, so I was not happy about that either! Watching the changing of the guard at the Palace, we decided they all looked a bit dishevelled - not a patch on Buckingham Palace! The Tivoli Gardens, originally designed as an 1843 amusement park, still make a colourful and pretty park today, even in the drizzle!

Friday 27th August
Oslo, Norway
Cruise ships tie-up below the impressive 13th Century Akershus Fortress. The sail training ship "Christian Radich" was there too, as was Holland-America Line's "Statendam". The City Hall facing the harbour was opened in 1950 but you can tell from the style that it was begun in 1931.

Akershus Fortress "Christian Radich" & "Statendam"		City Hall		Vigeland Park		Vigeland Park		Vigeland Park

The 212 full-size sculptures "populating" Vigeland Park make a fascinating tour-stop. Named after the eccentric sculptor, Gustav Vigeland, who died in 1943, it was opened in the 1930's. The centre-piece is a 46ft high monolith comprising 121 entwined figures.

Saturday 28th August
Stavanger, Norway
Cruise ships tie-up alongside the old town and colourful Skagenkein where the houses of Hanseatic merchants are now shops, bars and restaurants. This part of the town is now a conservation area and there are some interesting views of the ships from here, seemingly in the middle of the road.

Black Watch		Colourful Skagenkein		The Old Town		Cruise to Lysefjord		Pulpit Rock Lysefjord

In the afternoon, we took a local cruise into Lysefjord to enjoy coffee and waffles at a waterside picnic spot and to see "Pulpit Rock", which towers 604m (1,980ft) above the fjord. If you took the 2-hour hike up to the top, this is what Pulpit Rock might look like! (picture by Gard Karlsen)

Sunday 29th August
Ulvik & Eidfjord, Norway
From the shore, the view of Black Watch anchored at Ulvik in the morning mist captures the quiet serenity of this place. Luckily, the mist cleared and I was able to take the seaplane flight for a great view of Hardanger Glacier. The plane landed on the calm water alongside the ship - fantastic!

Morning mist at Ulvik		Seaplane Flight		Hardanger Glacier (from the seaplane)		Voringfoss Waterfall		Eidfjord

The ship then moved to anchor in Eidfjord and our tour took us first to see the Voringfoss Falls and then on to Sysendam Lake, where there was another great view of the Hardanger Glacier. Picture >>

Black Watch tendering at Eidfjord
Map of Sognefjord/Hardangerfjord.

Monday 30th August
Gudvangen & Flam, Norway
Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway (2nd longest in the World) and stretches 203km inland (126 miles). At the end of one "arm" is Gudvangen, where we anchored and left by tender for an all-

Approaching Gudvangen		From Stalheim		Flam Railway (postcard)		Tvindefossen Waterfall		Flam Railway Station

day tour up to Stalheim for coffee and a terrific view, then via the 150m (492ft) Tvindevossen Waterfall to Voss for lunch. We then took the regular train to Myrdal, where we picked up the scenic Flam Railway which runs 20km (12 miles) steeply down to the town of Flam, where Black Watch was now docked and waiting for us. While we sat on the balcony enjoying free drinks and canapes (!!) we spotted 2 local young men skinny-dipping in the bay some distance away. See the picture! >>

Tuesday 31st August
Bergen, Norway
The weather was brilliant in Bergen and perfect to enjoy the funicular railway (or Floi Banen) up Mount Floeyen for a great view over the city.

Floi Banen		From Mount Floeyen		Fish Market		Grieg's House		Grieg Concert Pavilion

In the afternoon, we took the organised tour to Grieg's House and enjoyed a short recital in the purpose-built concert pavilion in the grounds close to where Grieg wrote his music in a little shack by the water.

This was a wonderful holiday, packed with scenic views and spectacular waterfalls in the majestic landscape that is Norway. The ship was comfortable - especially being cocooned in our Marquee Suite (9001!), complete with 2 bathrooms, seperate bedroom and sitting-room, balcony and complimentary drinks and canapes every evening; we hardly needed to visit the bars and lounges!

Lido Lounge		Lido Lounge Deck		At anchor in Norway		In Dover		The Observatory

However, I did not find the old "Royal Viking Star" as luxurious as I expected - perhaps befitting her age (27 yrs old) she has been adapted a lot and now has 850 passengers compared to the 700 she had in those days. But she still has lovely lines and feels like a "proper" ship! The food on board was also not up to what we had experienced - quite good but mostly fairly ordinary. That's the problem with getting used to the 5-star life; you have to come back to 4-stars once in a while!

Cruise Mileage: 2,081 nautical miles
Total Mileage to date: 70,732 n miles